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2.5 km from Le Relais Montmartre

News

Events
Montmartre Grape Harvest Festival
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La boite aux Lettres
Hobbies
La Maison Rose: a legendary place with a 150-year history in the Montmartre village
Hobbies
The Espace Dali in Montmartre
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Restaurant: "Les tantes Jeanne", a moment of weightlessness
Events
Montmartre Grape Harvest Festival
What is concealed behind the harvest festival in Montmartre? 
Back & information on the 84th edition of the must-see Parisian event!
Did you know it? 

The Montmartre grape harvest festival has been an annual tradition since 1934. 
We are very grateful to the Dames de L'Abbaye de Montmartre who planted vines all around the Montmartre hill. 

In 1934, Mistinguett and Fernandel launched the tradition of festivities in October to celebrate the arrival of a new wine!

It is today the 3rd most attended public event in Paris with no less than 400 000 people! 

The wine harvested there is a cuvée of Red Wine and Rosé Wine, the "Clos Montmartre", which is made up of 27 grape varieties, 75% Gamay and 20% Pinot Noir. It is 1760 plants which will be harvested there every year.

 

Other information : 

Date of version 2018 : From 10 to 14 October.
Price: Free 
Place: In all streets of the 18th 
 

Learn more..: 
Official website of the event: fetedesvendangesdemontmartre.com
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La boite aux Lettres
A great place at the top of Montmartre

To reach this restaurant, you will have to go up the rue Lepic, almost at the top of Montmartre.
It is located just above the Moulin de Galette (read our article) and Coq Rico (read our article)
The business started in 2013 and is run by Antonin Prion, who is floor manager and had the great idea of being trilingual. He is also the associate of Frédéric Paul Chartier, who works in the kitchen. We will talk about him a bit later.
Past the entrance is a small room with less than 30 seats where intimacy seems to be a priority. We were immediately taken in hand and placed where we wish. Each dish is explained. The service is as attentive and friendly as its is professional.

The menu is simple: At noon, the main course is €12, the starter/main course or main course/dessert is €12, and the starter/main course and dessert is €18. In the evening, both services are €25 and the 3 services are €33.

We start with a split pea soup made with new onions, thyme and bay leaves, button mushrooms, bacon, cream, chervil, and pistachios. It is topped off by Antonin who pours the soup then the cream in front of you.

We immediately taste the freshness of the peas, the chewiness of the mushroom, and the crunchiness of the pistachios. Then comes the salty smoked bacon that bursts in the mouth. The dish is beautiful, it is very balanced in flavor and texture. For a starter at €7, it is extremely well done and worthy of a very good restaurant.
This dish and the following were accompanied by a Morgon from Laurent Thévenet (€6.50 a glass), which is filled with beautiful hints of red fruit and lasts quite long in the mouth.
We continued with a rizotto and Serrano ham. The dish was served less than 10 minutes after the first plate was sent back to the kitchen. Nice timing when we know that a rizotto takes about thirty minutes.

The rizotto with mascarpone, is mixed with daïkons (Japanese white radish), topped by a bed of gourmet peas, slices of serrano, all brought together with preserved garlic. The dish is well balanced: It is both crunchy with the daikon and melting with mascarpone. The sugar from the garlic confit is well-balanced with the salty Serrano. Another great restaurant for only €12 per dish.
I then chose a very simple dessert from my childhood: French toast. It is served with salted butter caramel. It is crispy on the surface and moist in the middle. Accompanied by salted butter, it is really excellent and although I was full, I just had to finish it. 

Special greetings to the chef Frédéric Paul Chartier, who we had met before at La Balançoire.
He is talented, respects the product, and loves his job as much as his customers. He was trained at the famous Ferrandi school and then joined the brigade of Ducasse's Eiffel Tower brewery.
The adventure won't stop here for him and his partner. Thank you

LA BOITE AUX LETTRES
108, rue Lepic – 75018 Paris
Monday to Saturday from 12:00 pm to 2:30 pm and from 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm
http://www.restaurantlaboiteauxlettres.fr/

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Hobbies
La Maison Rose: a legendary place with a 150-year history in the Montmartre village
​Discover what links this place to Picasso, Utrillo, and other Montmartre figures
This small house, located at the corner of the rue des Saules and l’Abreuvoir, has been immortalized by many painters, including Maurice Utrillo and Bernard Buffet.
We don't know the exact year the house was built, but probably before 1850. Here are the first two available photos, dating back to 1870 and 1887 respectively. We don't know who owned this modest home at that time.


La maison rose - 1870

La Maison Rose - 1887
However, we do know that it was bought around 1905 by a certain Laure Germaine Pichot Girones (1880-1948), née Gargallo, a former model for Picasso
Pablo Picasso and Carlos Casagemas had met in Barcelona at the beginning of the 1900. More financially well-off than Picasso, it is Casagemas who proposes and finances their first trip to Paris. There, they meet Laure Germaine Gargalllo, who was a dancer at the Moulin Rouge. Casagemas falls in love with the dancer, who repeatedly pushes away his advances. The painter gradually sinks into depression and alcoholism. During an evening at the Café de l'Hippodrome, on Boulevard de Clichy, on February 17, 1901, he committed suicide with a bullet to the head after first pointing his gun at his lover.
Germaine was not greatly affected by the tragedy and married the painter Ramón Pichot Girones (1871-1925) only a year later.
Picasso was deeply shocked. He would later say it was this incident that initiated his blue period, in which one of the iconic illustrations is "La Vie" (1903), depicting Carlos Casagemas in the arms of his lover. Germaine appears in several of the Master's paintings, such as "Woman with a shawl" (1902) and "Au Lapin Agile" (1905).


La vie – Pablo Picasso, 1903

Woman in a shawl - Pablo Picasso, 1902
We can think that Laure Germaine created her business between 1920 and 1923: This postcard, with a "La Semeuse" (The Sower) 5-centimes stamp, can be estimated to be after 1908, and the photo of Eugène Atget dating from 1910, shows a facade without a sign.
The first existing pictures that show a facade with a sign date from 1920 and 1923.




La maison Rose – Lionel ATGET - 1910

La maison Rose – 1920

La Maison Rose – en of 1920

Laure Germaine Pichot and her husband (1923)
Having become the owner of this modest canteen, Germaine Pichot, called "Aunt Laure" by close friends, hosted Albert Camus, Suzanne Valadon, and Maurice Utrillo. 


Carrefour de la rue des Saules et de la rue Cortot-Montmartre - Maurice Utrillo, 1938
Years go by. Ravaged by syphilis, Germaine Pichot died in December 1948. Picasso remained loyal, visiting her until the end. The house was purchased in the same month by Béatrice Miolano, who took over its management for a few years before entrusting management to a Montmartre figure called "Toutoune", and who held onto la Maison Rose for 25 years.
From one stewardship to the next, the business declines and becomes a tourist image that is no longer frequented by the Montmartre residents.


At last, just recently in early February 2018, la Maison Rose has reopened after several months of renovation. The boss is none other than Laurence Miolano, Beatrice Miolano's granddaughter, who appears to have the intention to keep up the location's tradition. Stay tuned...
 
LA MAISON ROSE
2 de l’Abreuvoir - 75018 PARIS
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The Espace Dali in Montmartre
Flashback on the life and personality of the artist through 3 works of the museum.
The Dali space has just reopened after several months of work. The Museum's collection focuses particularly on sculpture, the less well-known side of Dali's work, and also includes engravings and lithographs. 

The collection of Beniamino Levi

The collection on display is that of the Italian gallery owner Beniamino Levi. Shortly after meeting Salvador Dali in 1975, he encouraged the artist to further develop sculpting:  
 

Focus on some of the works on display

Les yeux surréalistes (Surrealist eyes) - Architectural project for a tower "La casa de los oyos".
Dali is outraged by the bars and towers which, according to him, destroy the landscape and urban life. His posture is in line with that of Gaudi and the opposite of that of Le Corbusier.
 

At left, The persistence of time (Espace Dali) - At right, The Persistence of Memory - 1831 (Museum of Art New York)

Entropy, degradation, death have obsessed Salvador Dali. The stopped watch, which extends over a body empty of life (branch, horse, inert material) and flows like cheese, opposes the material that persists (background), and is a representation of the mind that sends us back to God.
 

Retrospective Bust of a Woman 
This work had found its place in the personal office of the artist, on his chimney. On a Baguette, whose cruston is one of the favorite talismans of the painter, Dali poses an inkwell representing the Angelus of Millet, canvas which obsesses him and of which he produced several versions. (Facing, archaeological reminiscence of the Millet Angelus - 1935). The ants we see on the face are an iconic vision also coming back insistently in the works of the Master.

Dali the singular

Salvador Dali was born on May 11, 1904 in Figueras. He was given the same first name as his brother who died a few months before his birth. His authoritarian father, barely tolerates that his son is fond of art. His parents took him to his brother's grave at the age of 5, telling him that he was the reincarnation of his brother. He lost his mother at the age of 16 and his father married the sister of the deceased, to continue the register of assimilation of the individual within the family.
His search for "concentric eccentricity", as he called it, only aims to push the singularity of his person ever further. He succeeds in this exercise with talent and not without humor.
At the end of his studies, on the advice of Joan Miró, Salvador Dali goes to Paris for the first time in 1927. He meets Pablo Picasso whom he admires as much as he perceives him as a rival. Dali finds his own style from 1929, when he becomes full surrealist and invents the paranoid-critical method. He stays in Paris again from 1930 to 1932 and frequents surrealist artists such as André Breton, Max Ernst, Yves Tanguy, René Magritte and meets his future wife, Gala, who lived in Montmartre, rue Becquerel with Paul Eluard.
When a journalist asks him the question, "Are you living in an era where you can still make a scandal?" He replies, "It is possible to strike in an effective way on the imagination of crowds with new means of cretinisation like television, radio, press."



ESPACE DALI
Tous les jours de 10h00 à 18h30
11 Rue Poulbot, 75018 Paris
https://www.daliparis.com/
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Restaurant: "Les tantes Jeanne", a moment of weightlessness
We've fallen for this gastronomic restaurant, rated 2 toques by Gault Millau. This restaurant, founded more than 60 years ago, is located just two minutes away from the Relais Montmartre and is worth a look if you are a gourmet. Plus, it serves the best meat in Montmartre.
The chef and business owner since 2012 is Octave Kasakolu. Trained by two-star chef Henri Faugeron, he has worked in restaurants for over 25 years and has been in the kitchen for 10. Passionate about and deeply invested in his job, Octave Kasakolu is always looking to create something new and has unlimited creativity. We will expand on why the culinary experience offered here is unusual.  

 Octave Kasakolu
Octave Kasakolu is always on the lookout for something new. He uses his favorite districts and markets to conduct his research. He goes in the 15thdistrict, rue des entrepreneurs, for Iranian products. He also visits all the oriental and African stores for ingredients such sweet potatoes, ginger, items he had not thought of before, to work on and offer a creative dish that has, above all, a real culinary interest.

Specialized in very high quality meat, the restaurant has its own maturing room, where the meat is carefully staled to obtain a pure product. The dried meats, as for them, are each chosen with care.
 Les tantes jeanne is the only restaurant in Montmartre to offer Kobe Beef (Japan) in its prestigious meat menu. This traditional meat is highly recognized for its marbled flavor and tenderness.
But what will you eat? In addition to the 7 times tasting menu at €185, including a Kobe beef to which we will return, the menu, which is often renewed, offers 4 starters ranging from €12.50 to €24, and a plate of excellent charcuterie: dried Wagyu, Bellota Pata Negra, Galician rib steak... (€28).
As for the dishes, there is, for example, this very fine Arctic char fillet, a high mountain fish that is usually found on 3-star menus, served with a barley syrup risotto, pike or flying fish eggs, and white butter.

Arctic char fillet
Depending on the season, you can order a deer filet beautifully served as a Tournedos Rossini, with a sauce made from sorrel and Iranian lemon, foie gras, spinach, boletus mushrooms, girolle mushrooms, and chanterelle mushrooms.

Deer fillet

Or this rack of Axuria lamb with Espelette pepper, served from October to May, which is as delicious as it looks:

We also recommend the famous black Angus, enjoyable, for example, with an side of smoked vegetables and flavored with rosemary and lemon thyme.

The Black Angus rib steak - 200gr, €36 - 300gr, €54

The assortment of cheeses from Virginie Boularouah (address to discover) is a small wonder.
The room is warm and the tables are tidy. Silver cutlery from Thiers, plates from manufacture de Monaco, everything is designed for good food that you can accompany with wines chosen from 600 bottles, with the advice of a sommelier chef.
If you have room for dessert, try the "Comme une tatin", which has a crunchy chocolate base and whipped caramel. The arrangement is a poem on its own.
Bon appétit.



LES TANTES JEANNES
42 rue Véron, 75018 PARIS
Tél: 01 42 51 14 21
Open Monday to Tuesday, from 6:00 pm to 11:30 pm and Wednesday to Sunday, from 12:00 pm to 3:00 pm and 6:00 pm to 11:30 pm.
Website: http://www.lestantesjeanne.fr/
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