Paris, the City of Love: 1 night in the most romantic district of Paris.

A bouquet of flowers, macarons and champagne.

Stay in a superior room.

The Musée Montmartre is one of the most romantic and authentic places in Montmartre. Comprising 3 buildings and several gardens, it has been home to artists such as Auguste Renoir, Emile Bernard, Raoul Dufy, Suzanne Valadon and Maurice Utrillo. The museum includes the gardens and its café, the permanent exhibition and the temporary exhibition.
To reach this romantic and cultural venue, we’re going to take a route that’s just as charming as its destination. Follow the trail!

We will be at the exit of Lamarck-Caulincourt station.

We’re climbing the steps

At the top of the steps, you can stop for a coffee at Ginette’s.

We cross the square at Place Constantin Pecqueur and then climb the stairs to Rue Grirardon.

We’re coming up behind Place Dalida, which we mentioned in an other walk.

We continue to the left, rue de l’Abreuvoir, towards the Montmartre Basilica.

We pass the Maison Rose.

And finally reach rue Cortot.

And here we are at the Musée de Montmartre. The walk has already turned us half into Montmartreans.

GARDENS OF THE MONTMARTRE MUSEUM

We suggest you start your visit by exploring the gardens.

Time has stopped

.

Suzanne Valadon and Maurice Utrillo’s painting studio can be seen.

Then we come to another garden with the little café on the left. Here you can take a break and settle down for a read if you like.

As you descend the steps to the lower garden, you can see the Clos-Montmartre vineyards, where wine production is celebrated every year during the grape harvest festival in October.

PERMANENT EXHIBITION AT THE MONTMARTRE MUSEUM

The permanent collections plunge us into the history of Montmartre, starting with the effervescence of its painters’ studios. They also present the atmosphere of its cabarets, from the Lapin Agile to the Moulin Rouge. One room is dedicated to the French Cancan, and another to shadow theatre, the dreamlike setting that made the reputation of the Chat Noir cabaret.

The studio of Suzanne Valadon and Maurice Utrillo

A room in Suzanne Valadon and Maurice Utrillo’s apartment.

Maurice Utrillo – The old Maquis in Montmartre, c. 1919

Cabaret Le Chat Noir poster.

A famous poster for The Japanese Divan (1893), by Henri de Toulouse de Lautrec.

TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS AT THE MONTMARTRE MUSEUM

Most of the space is given over to temporary exhibitions, whose scenography and research are of a very high standard for a private museum.
As their name suggests, these exhibitions are temporary, and the one we saw, “Surréalisme au féminin?”, ends on 10 September 2023. We invite you to discover the current exhibition here: https://museedemontmartre.fr/expositions-et-evenements/

Jacqueline Lamba – La femme Blonde, 1930

To sum up, this walk and tour are typically Montmartre and filled us with vitality. We highly recommend the experience.

Montmartre Museum
12 Rue Cortot, 75018 Paris
Thursday to Monday, 10am to 7pm
Tuesdays from 10am to 6pm and Wednesdays from 10am to 10pm
https://museedemontmartre.fr/

Is this annual event not to be missed? We tested it for you. Our photos, video and explanations.

Since 1934, an annual celebration lasting several days has been held in October to mark the grape harvest and the unveiling of the new Clos Montmartre vintage. It’s a popular village festival, steeped in tradition and steeped in folklore, featuring gastronomy and wine.
If you’re interested in village life, folklore, gastronomy and wine, we invite you to join us at the 2024 fête des vendanges. This year’s fête des vendanges was held from 11 to 15 October 2023. The timeless core of the festivities on the programme includes a visit to the vineyards, a parade, a taste trail, a ball and concerts.

HISTORY OF MONTMARTRE VINES

In the 12th century, the nuns of Montmartre Abbey planted vines. However, the abbey’s impoverishment led to the sale of its vineyard plots, and by the 18th century most of the hill was covered in vines, surrounded by prosperous taverns and cabarets.
After Montmartre became part of Paris in 1860, more and more houses were built to the detriment of the vines, which finally disappeared completely in 1928. On the initiative of the painter Francisque Poulbot and others, the Prefect of the Seine declared the current land of the Clos de Montmartre unbuildable to protect the area from property investment. In 1933, the City of Paris planted 2,000 vines on the site. The first grape harvest was celebrated in 1934.

Fête des vendanges from 5 to 7 October 1934. See the film : https://digital.tcl.sc.edu/digital/collection/MVTN/id/1532/rec/1*

WHERE IS CLOS MONTMARTRE?

The vineyard is exposed on the northern slope of the Butte Montmartre, along the rue Saint-Vincent and the rue des Saules. No pesticides or fungicides are used.
1,760 vines from 30 different grape varieties, including one hybrid, produce around 1,300 kilos of grapes, equivalent to around 1,000 bottles of red and rosé wine. The vineyard is run by a gardener from the Paris City Council under the supervision of an oenologist. The harvest at Clos Montmartre is separate from the fête des vendanges. It is not a special event and takes place around 15 days before the fête des vendanges.
The best view of the Clos Montmartre, where we filmed, is from the Musée Montmartre, which we particularly recommend you visit. (read our article). You can also book a visit to the vineyards on the Musée Montmartre website:
https://museedemontmartre.fr/evenements/visite-des-vignes-du-clos-montmartre-et-du-musee-de-montmartre/

Clos Montmartre
14-18 rue des Saules- 75018 Paris
http://www.fetedesvendangesdemontmartre.com/ 

Just two minutes from the Relais Montmartre, enjoy a magical evening at the Moulin Rouge!

HISTORY OF THE MOULIN ROUGE :

Founded in 1889 on the hillside of Montmartre, the Moulin Rouge is the most famous of Parisian cabarets, with its changing decor and revolutionary architecture.

During the Belle Époque, wealthy businessmen came here to indulge in the company of the dancers of the French cancan with its famous levé de jambe.

They include La Goulue and Jane Avril, immortalised by Toulouse-Lautrec. The Moulin Rouge has been an eternal source of inspiration for artists, film-makers, writers and painters.

During the 20th century, the cabaret moved from the Roaring Twenties to the post-war period, and underwent numerous restorations. Destroyed by fire in 1915, it was rebuilt in 1921.

THE REVIEWS :

Since the 1950s, a dozen revues have been created, the latest of which, “Féérie”, has been running since 23 December 1999.
Conceived by Doris Haug and Ruggero Angeletti, this revue alternates five tableaux where you can admire 60 Doriss Girls in dazzling costumes. Feathers, rhinestones and sequins will enchant your eyes.
You’ll marvel at the snake swimmer, who dances in a glass pool surrounded by reptiles.
The dances inspired by Indonesia will take you on a journey.
Book your evening and experience the exceptional!

 
Practical information:
– Address: 82 boulevard de Clichy, 75018 Paris.
– Telephone: +33(0)1 53 09 82 82
Prices:
– Show only: tickets from €87
– Dinner and show: from €185 to €230
– Book online: https://www.moulinrouge.fr/reservations

Experience the enchantment of Christmas in Paris, with its wonderful Christmas markets, ephemeral ice rinks and breathtaking illuminations, and discover our best addresses for warming up with a good cup of tea.

CHISTMAS MARKETS 2022

Wooden chalets, local produce, attractions, the Christmas markets in our beautiful capital are back!
With family or friends, experience the enchantment of Christmas to the delight of young and old alike.

Informations pratiques :
• Marché de Noël de l’hôtel de Ville 
du 2 décembre 2022 au 3 janvier 2023
• Marché de Noël des Tuileries
du 19 novembre 2022 au 8 janvier 2023
• Marché de Noël du Champs de Mars 
du 16 décembre 2022 au 2 janvier 2023
• Marché de Noël de Notre Dame 
du 9 au 26 décembre 2022

GET ON THE PARISIAN SKATES

The ephemeral ice rinks are a must during the festive season.
When you’re strolling around the Christmas markets, come and skate on the unmissable ice rink at the Marché de Noël des Tuileries, which offers a huge surface area for sliding.
Come and show off your skills at the Champs de Mars to experience skiing right next to the Eiffel Tower.

Don’t forget your gloves and your hat! The Parisian slopes are yours

PARIS UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT

Every year, Paris lights up for the festive season!
The façades of department stores such as Galeries Lafayette and Printemps on boulevard Haussmann are decked out in their finest decorations for the occasion. It’s an experience not to be missed, with theatrical Christmas scenes for young and old alike, not forgetting the unmissable Christmas tree at Galeries Lafayettes.
The other districts of Paris are also ablaze with lights. Place Vendôme, Avenue des Champs Elysées and Faubourg Saint Honoré all await you to experience the magic of Christmas.

GOOD ADDRESSES

Between two activities, come and warm up in places specially selected for you.

–À la Mère de Famille, on rue Faubourg Montmartre, is the oldest chocolate factory in Paris. Founded in 1761, it is a legendary address not to be missed during your Parisian escapades. The perfect place to shop for chocolates and sweets for Christmas.

–Pierre Hermé and DrugStore chef Eric Frechon have joined forces to bring you a Christmas teetime.
Enjoy savoury and sweet creations, as well as signature creations, accompanied by a hot drink or a glass of champagne, while admiring the Arc de Triomphe.

–Treize au Jardin opens its doors to you for a teetime accompanied by organic sweet and savoury dishes facing the Jardin du Luxembourg in a picturesque 19th century setting with old books and quirky objects.

For lovers of French gastronomy, don’t miss the Monsieur Dior restaurant in the Dior building at 30 rue Montaigne.
A new Parisian restaurant paying homage to Christian Dior, chef Jean Imbert revisits great classics in the image of this prestigious French house. For those with a sweet tooth, the Pâtisserie Dior on the lower floor will delight your taste buds.
Good entertainment in PARIS

-The entire Relais Montmartre team wishes you a Merry Christmas-

Walk with us through the streets of Montmartre. An 8-stage tour illustrating the life of one of the greatest figures in 19th-century painting, from March 1886 to February 1888.When people talk about Vincent Van Gogh, they often mention Arles, Saint-Remy or Auvers sur Oise. However, Vincent Van Gogh spent two very important years of his life in Montmartre, which were to contribute to his artistic breakthrough. It was at the studio of the painter Fernand Cormon, located at 10 rue Constance, 20 metres from the Relais Montmartre, that it all began.
This story, which we invite you to relive, takes the form of an 8-stage tour illustrating a slice of the life of one of the greatest figures in 19th-century painting, from March 1886 to February 1888. Join us as we pass through typical, historic and charming districts.

When people talk about Vincent Van Gogh, they often mention Arles, Saint-Remy or Auvers sur Oise. Yet Vincent Van Gogh spent two very important years of his life in Montmartre, which were to contribute to his artistic breakthrough. It was at the studio of the painter Fernand Cormon, located at 10 rue Constance, 20 metres from the Relais Montmartre, that it all began.
This story, which we invite you to relive, takes the form of an 8-stage tour illustrating a slice of the life of one of the greatest figures in 19th-century painting, from March 1886 to February 1888. Join us as we pass through typical, historic and charming districts.

Equip yourself with a good pair of shoes like those painted several times by V. van Gogh – 1886 and 1887.

Click on the map to see the itinerary in Google Maps

10 RUE CONSTANCE, L’ACADÉMIE

We start our journey 20 metres from the Relais Montmartre.
Vincent van Gogh was self-taught and it was only at the age of 27 that he decided to become a painter. He attended the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Brussels and took lessons from his cousin, the painter Anton Mauve in The Hague, but he did not draw academically. He was scorned for this.
Shortly after his arrival in Paris, Vincent soon frequented the studio of Fernand Cormon located at 10 rue de Constance.
Vincent was already 33 and looked old to Fernand Cormon’s young pupils, who were quick to make fun of him.
It was at 10 rue Constance that Van Gogh made the acquaintance of Fernand Cormon Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, by Louis Anquetin, by John Peter Russel and above all Émile Bernard whose close friend he became.

Van Goh by John Peter Russel, 1886 – Emile Berard by Toulouse Lautrec the same year

Fernand Cormon’s studio, 10 rue Constance, was probably located on the 4th floor.

54 RUE LEPIC, OR THE IMPROVISED WORKSHOP

It was June 1886. Vincent Van Gogh had been in Paris for three months. When he arrived in Paris three months earlier, he had no means of support and was staying with his brother Theo and his wife Johanna in a small flat that they left to take up residence on the 3rd floor of 54 rue Lepic. Vincent’s bedroom window looked out over the rooftops of Paris.
This room was to become his studio. Here he painted many self-portraits and a few portraits of his brother, including this one below, which for a long time was mistaken for a self-portrait.

View of the rooftops of Paris – V. van Gogh 1887

Left Self-portrait by Vincent Van Gogh, right Theo Van Gogh (detail) by Vincent Van Gogh – 1887

The two brothers were extremely close, as can be seen from their abundant correspondence. Theo admired his brother and never stopped supporting him.
In this flat at 54 rue Lepic, the Van Gogh brothers received their artist friends, Emile Bernard, Anquetin, Reid, Pissaro and others.

Theo Van Gogh’s flat was on the 3rd floor and was probably a two-roomed flat. On the ground floor of the building was the gallery of Alphonse Portier (1841-1902), a former paint merchant and patron of the Impressionists, who exhibited Corot (1796-1875) and Cézanne (1839-1906).

83 RUE LEPIC, THE WINDMILLS THAT MOVED VAN GOGH

The Moulin de la Galette is made up of two windmills: the Moulin Blute-fin to the west and the Moulin Radet to the east, both acquired by the Debray family, millers in 1809. Between these two mills, a public ball opened in 1834, which became known as the “Moulin de la Galette” because the Debray family used to distribute galettes there.
Vincent Van Goh often painted the mills of Montmartre and the gardens it overlooked.

The Moulin de la Galette in 1886.

Le Moulin de la Galette V. van Gogh – 1887

The Moulin de la galette, today.

Maquis de Montmartre – 1890

The Radet mill overlooks the hill of Montmartre, where an area known as the Maquis de Montmartre was once home to allotments and a quarry.

Montmartre, quarry, mills – V. van Gogh 1886

18 RUE SAINT RUSTIQUE, WHERE ABSINTHE IS DRUNK

Vincent frequented numerous bars and cabarets in Montmartre. Fragile and tormented, Vincent drank. He was known to drink excessively, combined with a poor diet. Bars and cabarets were not, with a few exceptions, the subject of his paintings.

La guiguette à Montmartre – Aux Billards en bois – V. van Gogh 1886

Aux Billards en bois vers 1921 – Roger Violet

Aux Billards en Bois is now called La Bonne Franquette

62 BD DE CLICHY, HE PAYS IN PAINTINGS

Le Tambourin, at 62 boulevard de Clichy, was a cabaret restaurant that Vincent van Gogh frequented regularly. There he rubbed shoulders with Émile Bernard and Paul Gaugin, among others. He paid for his meals with paintings. The owner was none other than Agostina Segatori, who had posed for Édouard Manet.

Agostina Segatori – V. Van Gogh 1887

The Tambourin later became the Cabaret des Quat’z’arts. Here in 1900

62 boulevard de Clichy, the address of the late Le Tambourin

25 RUE VICTOR MASSÉ: THE UNEXPECTED ARRIVAL

Let’s go back in time. It is March 1886. Vincent arrived from Antwerp. It was at number 25, then called rue Laval, that Vincent invited himself into his brother’s home without telling him in advance. The flat was small. It was in the backyard on the second floor to the left.

AT 9 RUE CHAPTAL, ART IS A COMMODITY

Vincent Van Goh’s father and uncle sent Vincent to Paris in May 1875, to the head office of Goupil & Cie, located at 9 rue Chaptal. Goupil & Cie was one of the most important art dealers in the world at the time. Vincent was shocked to see art treated as a mere commodity and expressed his displeasure to certain clients, which led to his dismissal on 1 April 1876. Vincent returned to the Netherlands, but his brother found a steady job in 1880 with Goupil & Cie before becoming manager of its Boulevard de Montmartre branch. It was thanks to this position that he was able to support not only his brother but also, later, Paul Gauguin, making Vincent believe that the money was sent by his father.

Galerie Goupil, rue Chaptal – Le Monde Illustré 1860

The Goupil & Cie headquarters building at 9 rue Chaptal was also the address where the composer lived Iannis Xenakis

Galerie Goupil & Cie – Boulevard de Montmartre, run by Théo

14 RUE CLAUZEL, FATHER TANGUY’S HOME

Vincent Van Gogh met one of the most colourful figures in the Parisian art scene of the 1880s and 1890s. Affectionately nicknamed Father Tanguy by the painters, Julien François Tanguy ran a colour shop at 14 rue Clauzel and often accepted paintings in exchange for his wares. Van Gogh painted 3 portraits of Père Tanguy, including this one, which the merchant never wanted to part with. The use of bold colours was clear.
In the background, we can see some of the “Japonaiserie” that Vincent Van Gogh loved so much. The style Ukiyo-e, is a Japanese artistic movement of the Edo (1603-1868) which greatly inspired Vincent Van Gogh, particularly in its use of colour. He made numerous studies of it.

Père tanguy – V. van Gogh 1887

The Bridge in the Rain 1887 by V. van Gogh and Rain on the Ohami Bridge at Atake- Hiroshige 1857

EPILOGUE

Vincent left Paris in February 1888 for Arles. He wanted to go to Provence for the colours he wanted to find. He then went to Auvers sur Oise where his psychiatric health became increasingly unstable.
He is said to have sold only one painting in his lifetime, La Vigne rouge for 400 francs (around 1900 euros) to Anna Boch, herself a painter, in February 1890. The painting is so moving that it is both narrative and poetic.
Vincent Van Gogh shot himself in the chest on 28 July 1890 in Auvers sur Oise. His brother Theo died six months later. They lie next to each other in Auvers sur Oise.
See

All the paintings from the Paris period :http://www.vggallery.com/painting/by_period/paris.htm
Find out more about Vincent Van Gogh : https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vincent_van_Gogh