Le Relais Madeleine
Le Relais Saint-Honoré
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Hotel Near Gare du Nord in Paris
It's a restaurant with a traditional, intimate decor, a warm bistro atmosphere and a friendly, sincere, family welcome.
At the helm is David Polin. He worked on his menus next to a well-equipped and well-kept open kitchen. David Polin is a former sound engineer for cooking shows. He trained himself through passion and curiosity, before definitively embracing the restaurant profession. He's in the kitchen when he's not busy sourcing produce from eco-responsible French producers. It's market cuisine, but also sometimes world cuisine, inspired by his many travels.
The menu offers starters from €11 to €22, with classics like razor clams in parsley sauce, and creative dishes like beef ravioli with wasabi emulsion. As for the main courses, we're more into tradition, with a selection of quality meats such as filet of Charolais beef from the Perche region or old-fashioned blanquette of veal from the Limousin region.
There's a 3-course lunch menu at €25, which we chose. Another 3-course menu is available in the evening for 37€.
We ordered a glass of organic Tavel, Vino C Rouge, from the Languedoc region but rather light, with notes of red fruit and a hint of pepper. The wine list is very extensive, with around a hundred bottles.
We start our menu with a velouté of porcini mushrooms, since it's in season. It's creamy, rich and unctuous.
We continue with a beef chuck and vegetable jardinière. The dish is not very spicy, and the natural flavors of a good chuck that has been cooked for 4 hours come through clearly. It is served with a gribiche sauce. The vegetables, very fresh and firm, are bathed in a just-right broth with a bouquet garni. The sauce is willingly served with a very good loaf of bread from Thierry Breton's at the Gare du Nord.
It's a very good traditional dish made with excellent ingredients.
The waiter tells me that the vegetables come from a market-gardener in Roscoff, Brittany, run by an original producer who delivers to his customers in a "tripoteur", as was traditional in Brittany.
And then we chose the brioche perdue. It's served with a small amount of crème pâtissière topped with chantilly. The brioche is drizzled with maple syrup. It's simple, well done and very good.
It's a fine culinary experience, made up of simple, well-crafted dishes, with good produce, enjoyed to the accompaniment of some very good jazz, selected by a waiter who's a musician in his own right. Thanks for the good music.
We'll be back with pleasure.
Le Bon la Butte
102 ter rue Lepic – 75018 Paris
Tuesday to Thursday, 7:00 pm to 0:00 am
Friday to Sunday from 12:00 to 15:00 and from 19:00 to 23:00
https://www.lebonlabutte.fr/
Since 1934, an annual celebration lasting several days has taken place in October to mark the grape harvest and the unveiling of the new Clos Montmartre vintage. It's a popular village festival, steeped in tradition and imbued with folklore, featuring gastronomy and wine.
If you're interested in village atmosphere, folklore, gastronomy and wine, we invite you to join us at the 2024 fête des vendanges. This year's fête des vendanges took place from October 11 to 15, 2023. The timeless core of the festivities on the program is the vineyard tour, parade, taste trail, ball and concerts.
The history of Montmartre's vineyards
In the 12th century, the nuns of Montmartre Abbey planted vines. However, the abbey's impoverishment led to the sale of its vineyard plots, and by the 18th century, most of the hilltop was covered in vines, surrounded by prosperous taverns and cabarets.
After Montmartre became part of Paris in 1860, housing began to multiply at the expense of the vines, which finally disappeared completely in 1928. On the initiative of painter Francisque Poulbot and others, the Prefect of the Seine declared the present Clos de Montmartre land unbuildable, to protect the area from real estate investment. In 1933, the City of Paris planted 2,000 vines on the site. The first harvest celebration took place in 1934.
Fête des vendanges from October 5 to 7, 1934. See the film: https://digital.tcl.sc.edu/digital/collection/MVTN/id/1532/rec/1*
Where is Clos Montmartre?
The vineyard is located on the northern slope of the Butte Montmartre, along rue Saint-Vincent and rue des Saules. No pesticides or fungicides are used.
1,760 vines from 30 different grape varieties, including one hybrid, produce around 1,300 kilos of grapes, equivalent to around 1,000 bottles of red and rosé wine. The vineyard is managed by a gardener from the Paris city council, under the supervision of an oenologist. The harvest at Clos Montmartre is disconnected from the fête des vendanges. It is not the subject of a special event and takes place around 15 days before the fête des vendanges.
The best view of the Clos Montmartre, where we filmed, is from the Musée Montmartre, which we particularly recommend you visit. (read our article). You can also book a visit to the vineyards on the Musée Montmartre website:
https://museedemontmartre.fr/evenements/visite-des-vignes-du-clos-montmartre-et-du-musee-de-montmartre/
Clos Montmartre
14-18 rue des Saules- 75018 Paris
http://www.fetedesvendangesdemontmartre.com/
Remerciements à Monsieur l’adjoint au maire du 18ème arrondissement, Ariel Lellouche.
Halle Saint-Pierre in Paris is located not far from Relais Montmartre, at the foot of the basilica. The area is particularly picturesque and well worth a stroll. La Halle Saint-Pierre is a museum dedicated to unconventional, marginal and alternative art. It occupies a historic site, the former Baltard-style hall at the foot of the Butte Montmartre, once a bustling market.
Here are a few artists and works from the two exhibitions mentioned above.
« Aux frontières de l’art brut »
The exhibition brings together works by 15 artists who prefer the freedom of unusual paths. These artists come from very different backgrounds, personalities, career paths and businesses, and most of them have no artistic training. Their research is tireless, obsessive, and prolific. Their universe is unique and reflects a highly personal, singular, and often touching vision, so humble, sensitive, and intimate does it seem.
Ronan-Jim Sévellec is a French painter and sculptor born in 1938. His father introduced him to drawing, modeling and painting at an early age. From 1960 onwards, he created models for film productions. He gradually abandoned painting for sculpting miniature sets.
Born in the bush of Niger, Marion Oster is influenced by primitive civilizations. She creates a singular universe blending kitsch and enchantment. Her artistic creations include glittering mannequins, tattooed antique dolls and magical Ex-Voto, offering a free reinterpretation of folklore and tradition.
Gabriel Audebert, a former Parisian hairdresser, creates masks and busts from a newspaper-based material. His works depict political figures from the 1960s to 2000s, as well as figures taken from paintings by Van Gogh, Modigliani and Toulouse-Lautrec.
Roger Lorance began his artistic career after decisive encounters with painters Jules Thoret and Léopold Chaillot in the 1950s. His work is characterized by vividly colored, dreamlike paintings and poems in a singular, personal poetic style.
Le passeur – 2021
« Hey ! céramic.s »
From pop culture to art brut, the exhibition brings together 250 works by 34 artists who emancipate themselves from the creative norms commonly adopted in the field of ceramics. The exhibition is organized in partnership with the porcelain manufacturer Bernardeau.Here's a sample of what you'll see at the exhibition.
Christina Bothwel – Double violet – 2021
Christina Bothwel – Birds – 2019
Kirsten Stingle - Awakening
After the visit
At the end of the exhibition, you can enjoy the bar and bookshop, and continue your stroll through this pretty neighborhood.
Café du musée
Rue Ronsard, just outside the Museum
Enjoy your visit!
Halle Saint-Pierre
https://www.hallesaintpierre.org/
Rue Ronsard, 75018 Paris
Monday to Sunday 11:00 am to 6:00 pm, Tuesday closes at 7:00 pm.
« Aux frontières de l’art brut » from September 20, 2023 to February 25, 2024
« Hey ! céramic.s » from September 20, 2023 to August 14, 2024
Le Moulin de la Galette, today
A historic site
In the 18th century, as described by Charles Sellier in his History of Old Montmartre, the butte was home to at least twenty-five windmills.
As we wrote in our article "In the footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh", "The Moulin de la Galette is made up of two windmills: the Moulin Blute-fin to the west and the Moulin Radet to the east, both acquired by the Debray family, millers, in 1809. Between these two mills, a public ball opened in 1834, which became known as the "Moulin de la Galette" because the Debray family used to distribute galettes there.
Van Gogh, Renoir, Utrillo, Picasso, Toulouse Lautrec and others have painted the Moulin or bal du moulin de la galette.
Le Moulin de la Galette circa 1840
Auguste Renoir - Bal du moulin de la Galette – 1876 . Musée d’Orsay
A charming place
It's a touristy place, but that doesn't make it any less charming. In fine weather, you can enjoy a pleasant, secluded indoor terrace. It's best to come early in the evening to make sure you're in the right place.
The room is quite large and elegant. Only part of it is shown below.
What to eat?
The menu offers two courses for €31 or 3 courses for €39. The prices are right for a restaurant with such a great location.
See the menu: https://www.moulindelagaletteparis.com/menus-carte/#menu-432309
We start with a sea bass ceviche with red fruits: sea bass, olive oil, blueberry, strawberry and raspberry, vinegared onion, spring onion, dill and lemon sorbet. It's very fresh and makes a very pleasant combination, even if? for personal taste, I would have preferred a less sweet lemon sorbet. It's a perfect summer starter and makes you want to make it again at home.
Enjoy this dish with a glass of rosé.
We continue with mussels marinière. Served with homemade pommes allumette. The products are fresh and pleasant in summer. The sauce could have done with more of the white wine and butter, but it's still very decent.
All in all, a pleasant surprise for this tourist spot: You'll have a great time in this historic restaurant, for a fair price considering the quality of the dishes and their ingredients. Service is fast and efficient. We'll be back.
Moulin de la Galette
88 rue Lepic – 75018 Paris
Open every day from 12h00 to 22h00
https://www.moulindelagaletteparis.com/
To reach this romantic and cultural site, we're going to take a route that's just as charming as its destination. Follow the trail!
We will be at the exit of the Lamarck-Caulincourt station
We climb the steps
At the top of the steps, you can stop for a coffee at Ginette's.
We cross the Place Constantin Pecqueur square and climb the stairs to Rue Grirardon.
We're coming up behind Place Dalida, which we mentioned in another walk.
We turn left onto rue de l'Abreuvoir, towards the Montmartre Basilica
We pass the Maison Rose
And finally to rue Cortot
And here we are at the Musée de Montmartre. The walk has already half transformed us into Montmartreans
The gardens of the Montmartre museum
We suggest you start your visit by exploring the gardens.
Time stands still
Garden where Auguste Renoir worked
Suzanne Valadon and Maurice Utrillo's painting studio can be seen
We then approach another garden with the small café on the left. Here you can take a break and read a book if you wish
Descending the steps to the lower garden, you can see the Clos-Montmartre vineyards, where wine production is celebrated every year during the grape harvest festival in October
The permanent exhibition at the Musée de Montmartre
The permanent collections plunge us into the history of Montmartre, starting with the effervescence of its painters' studios. They also present the atmosphere of its cabarets, from the Lapin Agile to the Moulin Rouge. One room is dedicated to the French Cancan, while another features shadow theater, the dreamlike decor for which the Chat Noir cabaret is famous.
Suzanne Valadon and Maurice Utrillo's studio
A room in Suzanne Valadon and Maurice Utrillo's apartment
Maurice Utrillo - The old Maquis in Montmartre, ca. 1919
Cabaret le Chat Noir poster
A famous poster for Le Divan Japonais (1893), by Henri de Toulouse de Lautrec
Temporary exhibitions at the Musée de Montmartre
As their name suggests, these exhibitions are temporary, and the one we saw, "Surréalisme au féminin?", ends on September 10, 2023. We invite you to discover the current exhibition here: https://museedemontmartre.fr/en/expositions-et-evenements/
Jane Graverol - Le sacre du Printemps , 1960
Jacqueline Lamba - The blonde woman, 1930
All in all, this walk and tour are typically Montmartre and filled us with vitality. We highly recommend the experience.
Musée de Montmartre
12 Rue Cortot, 75018 Paris
Thursday to Monday, 10:00 am to 7:00 pm
Tuesday 10:00 am - 6:00 pm and Wednesday 10:00 am - 10:00 pm
https://museedemontmartre.fr/
It's a beautiful sunny day when I book a table for lunch at Le Zèbre in Montmartre. It's a little café-restaurant on rue Lepic, 200 meters from Le Relais Montmartre, and two stores away from the excellent boulangerie Alexine, which we'd included in our walking tour. (Read our article). Un Zèbre à Montmartre offers a pleasant terrace.
The atmosphere is warm and friendly, even family-like. People talk out loud, share their thoughts... Service is attentive and diligent.
The menu offers mostly classic French dishes: Terrine de campagne, œuf cocotte, honey-roasted camembert, semi-cooked tuna and grilled vegetables, duck breast with honey sauce and sautéed potatoes, entrecôte with shallot sauce and sautéed potatoes...
This is affordable cuisine, with starters priced from €7.50 to €9.50 and main courses from €16 to €18. Starters, main courses and desserts are priced at €17, plus a few extras depending on the dish. All dishes are homemade, and the produce is of the highest quality.
The establishment offers a short wine list at attractive prices, with most glasses priced at 6€. We chose a 2019 Macon, which went well with our choice of dishes.
We start with this well-served roasted Camembert. Its maturation is perfect, as it's not too "done" and therefore not too strong in the mouth. However, I would have liked the honey to have been added after rather than before baking.
We continue with a seared, raw tuna. It's served with a jardinière of grilled vegetables, including a sweet potato that goes very well with our tuna. The tuna and vegetables are perfectly cooked. We added a very slightly sweet soy-based sauce.
It's worth mentioning, and I didn't know it, that the soft chuck steak with shallot sauce is a must-try dish at this restaurant, which has been on the menu for 22 years. Try it next time.
And to round things off, a great classic, very well interpreted here: this crème brulée, fresh to the core. The vanilla is very present and the brown sugar well caramelized.
In conclusion, the charm of the place, the conviviality, the quality of the products and the mastery of the interpretation of the dishes at reasonable prices, make this address, which is open every day, a place to remember for your stay in Montmartre.
Un Zèbre à Montmartre
38 Rue Lepic, 75018 Paris
Every day from 9am to 2am
https://zebreamontmartre.fr/en/
See teh Menu: https://zebreamontmartre.fr/en/services
- Relais Montmartre
- Café des Deux Moulins
- Wall of the I love you
- The stairs of Montmartre and the Funicular
- Place du Tertre
- Dali Museum
- Pink House
- House of Dalida
- Mill of the cake
- Cemetery of Montmartre
See the route in google maps : click here
Two one-minute videos to get a quick look at this course:
We leave of course from the Relais Montmartre, preferably early, because you will have the pleasure to see Montmartre awake.
The walk can start with a coffee, at the Café des Deux Moulins, which we had tested for you in a previous article (read our article).
In the café des Deux Moulins, a very pleasant Saturday morning atmosphere.
Less than 200 meters from the Relais Montmartre, you can also choose to have an espresso at the counter of this café.
The croissants of our partner "Alexine" are really excellent. Would you like to try them?
In the Rue Lepic, 200 meters from the Relais Montmartre. Colors and freshness that recall the movie Le Fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulin.
You can also choose one of the beautiful terraces of the many cafés that line the rue des Abbesses. We are always less than 500 meters from the Relais Montmartre.
Built between 1894 and 1904, the church of St jean de Montmartre occupies a central point of the place des Abbesses. It is both original and charming.
Place des Abbesses. A village atmosphere.
The Wall of Je t'aime, place des Abbesses, is composed of 612 glazed lava tiles where Je t'aime is written in 250 languages and dialects.
Going up to the hill, rue Barsac
The stairs of the rue Chappe
The Funicular and the steps where many joggers are very brave
The Montmartre Basilica, perched at 130 meters high, is one of the highest points of Paris.
The cafés and restaurants of the Place du Tertre
Many portraitists offer their services
Place du Tertre
Rue Poulbot, near the Dali Museum
The Dali Museum gathers 300 works and deserves a detour if you like this painter, major figure of the surrealist movement
La Maison rose
Dalida Square with the statue of the famous singer
The restaurant "le Moulin de la Galette" which we wrote about in our article on Vincent Van Gogh
Read our article "On the steps of Vincent Van Gogh in Montmartre"
The Cemetery of Montmartre is a particularly peaceful place that deserves a visit.
The tomb of Emile Zola. François Truffaut, Hector Berlioz, Alexandre Dumas, Michael Lonsdale and many others are buried in the Montmartre cemetery.
You can then reach the hotel by the Boulevard de Clichy, passing by the Cité Veron. Have a good meal!
Le Film culte
Vous souvenez-vous de la jeune Amelie dans le Fabuleux Destin D’Amélie Poulin ? Cette jeune femme à l’imagination débordante qu’incarne Audrey Tautou est serveuse dans ce café typiquement parisien.
Voir la bande-annonce du Film :
Le café existe bien ! Il s’appelle le Café des Deux Moulins, comme dans le film. Jean-Pierre Jeunet, le réalisateur, le fréquentait avant de sélectionner ce lieu de tournage. C’est dans ce café qu’Amélie et Nino Quincampoix ( Mathieu Kassovitz) ont le seul échange en personne du film.
On a testé le Café des Deux Moulins pour vous
On vous recommande plutôt la première salle qui est plus typique.
Ici, on mange pour pas cher. La prestation équivaut à celle d’un bouillon, comme le Bouillon Pigalle que nous avons testé récemment (lire notre article). L’entrée plat dessert est à 19€.
On a ensuite commandé un filet de bar, qui est dans les suggestions de plats du jour. C’est légèrement trop cuit mais le poisson est frais et l’accompagnement est très correct pour le prix.
La mention spéciale est pour la Pana cotta et coulis de fruits rouges, qui est vraiment délicieuse. J’y reviendrai rien que pour cela !
En résumé, une entrée, un plat, un dessert et un quart de rosé de qualités correctes pour un tarif économique dans une ambiance « Vintage ».
Le saviez-vous ?
Jean Pierre Jeunet dit en parlant du film tourné à Montmartre : "Nous avons débarrassé les rues de toutes les voitures, nettoyé les graffitis sur les murs, remplacé les affiches par d'autres plus colorées, etc. Disons que j'ai essayé d'exercer le plus de contrôle possible sur la qualité esthétique de la ville".Amélie Poulin a été le premier film étalonné en numérique. « A l’époque, avant le numérique, on ne pouvait pas faire n’importe quoi au niveau des couleurs. Tout d’un coup, c’était porte ouverte pour faire tout ce qu’on voulait../..Aujourd’hui ça parait presque trop. Je calmerais les couleurs. C’est presqu’agressif. A l’époque on pouvait tellement se permettre tout qu’on s’en est pas privé. On est allé très loin dans la colorimétrie » dit Jean Pierre Jeunet.
Il y a trois mois, Jean Pierre Jeunet, tourne un court métrage très drôle qu’il intitule "La véritable histoire d'Amélie Poulain". Le texte est toujours lu par André Dussollier. A voir absolument.
Café des Deux Moulins
Voir la carte : https://cafedesdeuxmoulins.fr/fr/services
15 Rue Lepic, 75018 Paris
Ouvert tous les jours de 7h00 à 2h00 sauf samedi et dimanche de 9h00 à 2h00
https://cafedesdeuxmoulins.fr/fr
This story that we invite you to relive, is materialized by a journey of 8 stages that illustrate a slice of life of one of the greatest figures of the 19th century painting, from March 1886 to February 1888. You will cross with us typical, historical and charming districts.
Come with us!
Equip yourself with a good pair of shoes like those painted several times by V. van Gogh - 1886 and 1887
Click on the map to see the route in Google Maps
10 rue Constance, l’académie
It is 20 meters from the Relais Montmartre that we begin our journey.
Vincent van Gogh was self-taught and it was only at the age of 27 that he decided to become a painter. He attended the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Brussels and took classes with his cousin, the painter Anton Mauve in The Hague, but he did not draw in an academic way. He will be despised for this.
Shortly after his arrival in Paris, Vincent attended the studio of Fernand Cormon, located at 10 rue de Constance. Vincent was already 33 years old and looked old to all the young students of Fernand Cormon who did not fail to make fun of him.
It was at 10 rue Constance that Van Gogh met Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Louis Anquetin, John Peter Russel and especially Émile Bernard, of whom he became a close friend.
Van Goh by John Peter Russel, 1886 - Emile Berard by Toulouse Lautrec the same year
Fernand Cormon's studio, 10 rue Constance, was probably located on the 4th floor.
54 rue Lepic, or the improvised workshop
This room will be his studio. He painted many self-portraits and a few portraits of his brother, including this one below which was mistaken for a long time for a self-portrait.
View of the roofs of Paris - V. van Gogh 1887
Left Self-portrait of Vincent Van Gogh, right Theo Van Gogh (detail) by Vincent Van Gogh – 1887
The two brothers were extremely close, as evidenced by their abundant correspondence. Theo admired his brother and never stopped supporting him.
In this apartment at 54 rue Lepic, the Van Gogh brothers received their artist friends, Emile Bernard, Anquetin, Reid, Pissaro and others.
Theo Van Gogh's apartment was located on the third floor and was probably a two-room apartment. On the first floor of the building was the gallery of Alphonse Portier (1841-1902), a former color dealer and patron of the Impressionists, who exhibited Corot (1796-1875) and Cézanne (1839-1906).
83 rue Lepic, the mills that move Van Gogh
The "Moulin de la Galette" is made up of two windmills: the Blute-fin mill to the west and the Radet mill to the east, both acquired by the Debray family, millers in 1809. Between these two mills, a public ball was opened in 1834, which took the name of "Moulin de la Galette" because the Debray family distributed galettes there.Vincent Van Goh painted many times the mills of Montmartre and the gardens that it dominates.
Le moulin de la Galette in 1886
Le Moulin de la Galette V. van Gogh – 1887
Le moulin de la galette, today
Maquis de Montmartre - 1890
The Radet mill overlooks the hill of Montmartre where there was an area called Maquis de Montmartre, consisting of allotments and a quarry.
Montmartre, quarry, mills - V. van Gogh 1886
18 rue Saint Rustique, where we drink absinthe
The Montmartre bars and cabarets frequented by Vincent are numerous. Fragile, tormented, Vincent drinks. He was known to drink excessively, combined with a poor diet. Bars and cabarets are not, except in exceptional cases, the subject of his paintings.
The guiguette in Montmartre - Wooden billiards - V. van Gogh 1886
Wooden billiards around 1921 - Roger Violet
Billards en bois is now called La bonne Franquette
62 Bd de Clichy, he pays with paintings
Le Tambourin, located at 62 boulevard de Clichy, was a cabaret restaurant that Vincent van Gogh used to frequent. He rubbed shoulders with Emile Bernard and Paul Gaugin, among others. He paid for the meals he consumed in paintings. The owner of the place was none other than Agostina Segatori who had posed for Édouard Manet.
Agostina Segatori – V. Van Gogh 1887
The Tambourin became the Cabaret des Quat'z'arts. Here in 1900
62 boulevard de Clichy, the address of the late Le Tambourin
25 Victor Massé Street: The unannounced arrival
Let's go back in time. We are in March 1886. Vincent arrives from Antwerp. It is at the 25th of this street, then called Laval street, that Vincent invites himself at his brother's house without having warned him. The apartment is small. It is located in the backyard on the second floor on the left.
Theo van Gogh's small apartment was located in a backyard building at 25 Victor Massé Street
Au 9 rue Chaptal, l’art est une marchandise
Vincent Van Goh's father and uncle sent Vincent to Paris in May 1875, to the head office of Goupil & Cie, located at 9 rue Chaptal. Goupil & Cie was then one of the most important art dealers in the world. Vincent was shocked to see art treated as a mere commodity and expressed his displeasure to some of his clients, which led to his dismissal on April 1, 1876. Vincent returned to the Netherlands but his brother got a stable job in 1880 at Goupil & Cie before becoming manager of its branch on Boulevard de Montmartre. It was thanks to this position that he was able to support his brother but also, later, Paul Gauguin, making Vincent believe that the money was sent by his father.
Galerie Goupil, rue Chaptal - Le Monde Illustré 1860
The Goupil & Cie headquarters building, 9 rue Chaptal was also the address where the composer Iannis Xenakis lived
Gallery Goupil & Cie - Boulevard de Montmartre, directed by Theo
14 rue Clauzel, at Father Tanguy's
Vincent Van Gogh met one of the most colorful characters of the Parisian artistic milieu of the 1880s - 1890s. Affectionately called Father Tanguy by the painters, Julien François Tanguy ran a color store at 14 rue Clauzel and often accepted paintings in exchange for his goods. Van Gogh painted 3 portraits of Father Tanguy, including this one which the merchant never wanted to part with. One can see that the use of frank colors was clear.
We can see in the background the "Japonaiserie" which Vincent Van Gogh was passionate about. The Ukiyo-e style is a Japanese artistic movement of the Edo period (1603-1868) which inspired Vincent Van Gogh, especially by the use of its colors. He made numerous studies of it.
Père Tanguy - V. van Gogh 1887
The Bridge in the Rain 1887 by V. van Gogh and Rain on the Ohami Bridge in Atake- Hiroshige 1857
Epilogue
Vincent leaves Paris in February for Arles. He wanted to go to Provence for the colors he wanted to find. He then went to Auvers sur Oise where his psychiatric health became more and more unstable. He sold only one painting in his lifetime, La Vigne Rouge, for 400 francs (about 1900 euros) to Anna Boch, herself a painter, in February 1890. The painting is so overwhelming that it is both narrative and poetic.
Vincent Van Gogh shot himself in the chest on July 28, 1890 in Auvers sur Oise. His brother Theo died six months later. They lie next to each other in Auvers sur Oise.
Voir le parcours in Google Maps
All the paintings of the Parisian period: http://www.vggallery.com/painting/by_period/paris.htm
Learn more about Vincent Van Gogh: https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vincent_van_Gogh
Coming from the hotel, you will take the Caulincourt street to go to the Bistrot du Maquis, located at 8 minutes on foot from the Relais Montmartre. You will notice the charm of the surroundings. The Bistrot du Maquis is run by chef André Le Letty and his wife Shuquin. The starred addresses in which André Le Letty worked follow one another with Prunier, Ledoyen, Taillevent and La Tour d'argent where he was 1st sous-chef.
There was a tandoori braised beef chuck with a slice of parsnip and sweet potato puree. The parsnip, which is a kind of white carrot, is just pan-fried and lightly caramelized. The chuck is extremely melting and the sauce is generous.
It was so delicious that I forgot to photograph the wild boar stew we ordered. It is served in an individual cast iron casserole and accompanied by an old-fashioned celery purée, lightly dabbed with butter. The sauce is just slightly singed which adds lightness to a dish that is nevertheless hearty.
We finish this meal of the gods with a pear in Sabayon gratin with the core of Poissy. The sabayon is obtained by incorporating with a whip, an alcohol (the core of Poissy) to egg yolks whitened with sugar. The surface was sweetened and caramelized in the oven. It is delicious.
Finally, it is also with generosity that André Le Letty reveals the recipe for his veal kidney with mustard sauce, steamed cabbage and bacon:
Le Bistrot du Maquis
From Wednesday to Sunday from 12:00 to 22:00
69 rue Caulincourt – 75018 Paris
https://www.bistrotdumaquis.com/
Bouillons were once comparable to what Fast foods are today: popular and economical restaurants, except that their menus were filled with dishes taken from the great classics of traditional French cuisine, which some would call bistro cuisine.
This address was created by the Moussié brothers, respectable and well-known actors on the Parisian scene (Café Jannette, Brasserie Barbès, Hôtel Providence). It serves up to 1800 covers a day at unbeatable prices.
You have to arrive early. During the week, the queue is quite fast, whatever the time in winter. But in the summer, on weekends, you have to arrive at the very beginning of the service.
The decoration, very inspired by the Bistrot style of the Belle Époque period, is quite neat. There is a room on the first floor that is a little more intimate, opening onto an enclosed terrace that will be very popular in summer.
The room is not very noisy considering the affluence.
You will find in the menu all the well-rehearsed standards at particularly good prices: The inevitable egg mayonnaise (2€50), the leek vinaigrette (3€40), the bone marrow (4€20), the 6 snails with parsley butter (7€00)... then the sausage with knife, mashed potatoes (9€60), the brandade of cod with olive oil and almonds (9€90), the beef bourguignon with smoked bacon and coquillettes (11€20), the fried steak with roquefort sauce (11€80)...
See the Menu:
https://bouillonlesite.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/BouillonPigalle_UK.pdf
We started with an onion soup, served hot but nicely gratinated and quite respectable, even though there was only one grilled crouton, the others did not seem to have been.
We went on with a Basque blood sausage purée. This recipe is based on offal and pork blood, onions and Espelette peppers. Even if its presentation would gain to be more engaging, the taste and the texture are quite convincing. The purée, which we would like to be richer in butter, is crushed.
We finish with a great classic of the bistro cuisine: A profiterole which did not seduce us with the blandness and the excess of its vanilla ice cream, a very flat and not very crunchy cabbage.
This meal is washed down with a quarter of a very correct Côte du Rhône at a price that is just impossible: 3€60
The service is courteous and efficient even if the delivery of the dishes suffers a little in delay.
A bill that reminds us of the amounts we used to pay in the 20th century.
In short, at the price we say, it's a bargain to be had.
Bouillon Pigalle
22 Bd de Clichy, 75018 Paris
Every day from 12:00 to 00:00
https://bouillonlesite.com/bouillon-pigalle
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Follow all your favourite shows, even in the hotel!
Have fun!
For more information, please contact us or refer to the reception.
Follow our guide and let us show you the romantic streets and places where you can enjoy the night!
The Place des Abbesses
Located at the entrance of the district, it referees a magnificent luminous carousel for children and its pretty flowered trees will make you spend a pleasant moment.
The street of the Chevalier-de-la-Barre and the church of the Sacré-Cœur
Sloping in its first part, the street of the Chevalier de la Barre is made up of old buildings which will seduce the amateurs of beautiful architecture.
The street leads to the sublime Sacré-Cœur church. Nestled at the top of the Montmartre hill, it is a real feast for the eyes, especially at night, in Paris, let's remember: City of Light!
The Moulin Rouge and Moulin Rouge Machine
You will be able to enjoy beautiful illuminations as well as beautiful viewpoints, ideal for taking nice pictures.
To finish your walk, you can enjoy the illuminations of the Moulin Rouge, and why not, go through its doors to enjoy its cabaret shows which have made its reputation since its creation, more than a century ago.
Guided tour in collaboration with Paris Zig-Zag :
You can visit them on your own or take part in one of the guided tours organised by Pariszigzag.
The Paris Zig-Zag guided tour is done on foot and lasts a maximum of 2 hours.
In addition to admiring the district, you will learn about its history and a large number of anecdotes related to each of its places.
The cost of the tour is 17 euros and must be booked in advance, as the number of places is limited.
While waiting for our second article to visit Montmartre by day, if you want to know more anecdotes about the Montmartre district, we invite you to discover our selection of unusual places in Montmatre (french) !
In order that your stay at the Relais Montmartre occurs in the best possible conditions, we inform you that, on account of the current sanitary situation, we have proceeded to a few changes in the hotel :
● The wear of a sanitary mask will be compulsory in all the common areas of the hotel. Some hydro-alcoholic gel will be also always available at the front desk.
● Breakfasts will be only served in your room.
● On our courtsey tray, (at free use in each of our rooms), our initial mugs have been replaced with disposable cardboard cups.
● During your stay long, we also kindly request from you to let us know if you would like your room to be cleaned or not. We thank you too in advance for airing your room when you leave it.
As our hotel has always been adament about cleanness, we inform our guests that we had taken strict measures in this direction long before the appearance of the Covid.
Our housekeeping daily uses « Vapodil » as a powerful cleaning device, — i.e. a dry steam device that totally disinfects any area because of a steam coming out at 120°.
Futhermore, we have bought ozone devices, which are used and placed in all rooms after the departure of the previous guest, to disinfect and clean the air.
● Our elevator cannot be used in the company of other hotel guests.
● From now on, the sending by mail of invoices is prioritized.
In spite of all these new mandatory measures, be certain that the entire team of the hotel will do its best to make your stay as pleasant as possible.
We thank you for your understanding and collaboration, and look sincerely forward from greeting you at the Relais Montmartre.
Kind regards.
The Management.
In order that your stay at the Relais Montmartre occurs in the best possible conditions, we inform you that, on account of the current sanitary situation, we have proceeded to a few changes in the hotel :
● The wear of a sanitary mask will be compulsory in all the common areas of the hotel. Some hydro-alcoholic gel will be also always available at the front desk.
● Breakfasts will be only served in your room.
● On our courtsey tray, (at free use in each of our rooms), our initial mugs have been replaced with disposable cardboard cups.
● During your stay long, we also kindly request from you to let us know if you would like your room to be cleaned or not. We thank you too in advance for airing your room when you leave it.
As our hotel has always been adament about cleanness, we inform our guests that we had taken strict measures in this direction long before the appearance of the Covid.
Our housekeeping daily uses « Vapodil » as a powerful cleaning device, — i.e. a dry steam device that totally disinfects any area because of a steam coming out at 120°.
Futhermore, we have bought ozone devices, which are used and placed in all rooms after the departure of the previous guest, to disinfect and clean the air.
● Our elevator cannot be used in the company of other hotel guests.
● From now on, the sending by mail of invoices is prioritized.
In spite of all these new mandatory measures, be certain that the entire team of the hotel will do its best to make your stay as pleasant as possible.
We thank you for your understanding and collaboration, and look sincerely forward from greeting you at the Relais Montmartre.
Kind regards.
The Management.
Dear Customer(s) in front of the evolution of Covid-19 the recommendations of the WHO and the decree of the French State.
The hotel is temporarily closed.
We will be happy to welcome you from Wednesday 25 August 2021.
If you need to modify or cancel a reservation, please contact the hotel by email:
"contact@relaismontmartre.fr"
Or by phone : + 33 1 70 64 25 25
We wish you all to keep yourselves in good shape and will be pleased to welcome you back soon in our hotel.
Looking forward to welcoming .
Best regards.
Take care and see you soon
Dear Customer(s) in front of the evolution of Covid-19 the recommendations of the WHO and the decree of the French State.
The hotel is temporarily closed.
We will be happy to welcome you from Wednesday 25 August 2021.
If you need to modify or cancel a reservation, please contact the hotel by email:
"contact@relaismontmartre.fr"
Or by phone : + 33 1 70 64 25 25
We wish you all to keep yourselves in good shape and will be pleased to welcome you back soon in our hotel.
Looking forward to welcoming .
Best regards.
Take care and see you soon
But who are they?
The name Poulbot comes from its creator: Francisque Poulbot. Drawer who lived for many years on the Butte Montmartre (you know, this famous hill that makes you appreciate your comfortable room even more after a long walk), F. Poulbot illustrates posters. By observing the life of the streets of Montmartre, he created this character known to all French people.
Despite their large (often blue) eyes and beautiful smile, the Poulbots hide behind this expression the misery of yesteryear.Heirs of Gavroche in Victor Hugo's Les Misérables, they represent a whole generation of children from Montmartre at a time when it was still only a village outside Paris, where children sometimes had to steal to eat.
Over the years, Poulbot has become the face of the association "les dispenssaires des petits poulbots" which has become an icon representing the Parisian titi, the post-war period and currently the "real Paris".
To find out a little more about the Poulbots, don't hesitate to talk to the many booksellers in the area. We also recommend two places:
Poulbot Street:
Before being attached to Paris, this street was part of the village of Montmartre. Currently part of the capital, these 70 metres long will allow you to feel the very essence of Montmartre.Information : Rue Poulbot - 700 mètres from the Relais Montmartre via la rue Lepic - 10-15 minutes walk.
Poulbot Restaurant:
Located in the street of the same name, this restaurant with its very Parisian decoration offers traditional cuisine and traditional beers. The wine list is also quite rich in beautiful finds. Among its must-sees, "the lamb shoulder in a 7-hour way and its juice, apple granules with thyme" or "the swordfish salsa verde and coconut paimpol with chorizo". A restaurant that only offers fresh food (three choices of starters, main courses and desserts) for a plebiscite of its customers from here or elsewhere. A very good address run by twins who have lived in the neighbourhood since the age of four.Informaiton : Restaurant le Poulbot - 3 rue Poulbot - 850 meters from the relais Montmartre via la rue Lepic - 10-15 minutes walk.
This juice bar offers fresh juices made from 100% organic fruit and vegetables every day. In order to preserve all their nutritional values, the juices are pressed slowly by extraction and not by centrifuging.
Just a few meters from the hotel, Vejuice offers five-day "detox" programs to counter stress and fatigue or to take a taste break throughout the day.
To accompany the different juices, healthy salads can complete your order.
Held by a passionate person, do not be hesitates to ask him what you want and let him guide you.
Whether it's the juice of the day, the soup of the season or a break after climbing all the steps to reach Montmartre during your walk, you now know where to get back into shape.
Le Vejuice (1 rue Constance) : 100% organic juice bar
Opening: Tuesday to Sunday from 9:30 am to 6:30 pm
From the hotel: 20 metres to the left leaving the Relais Montmartre
To reach this restaurant, you will have to go up the rue Lepic, almost at the top of Montmartre.
It is located just above the Moulin de Galette (read our article) and Coq Rico (read our article)
The business started in 2013 and is run by Antonin Prion, who is floor manager and had the great idea of being trilingual. He is also the associate of Frédéric Paul Chartier, who works in the kitchen. We will talk about him a bit later.
Past the entrance is a small room with less than 30 seats where intimacy seems to be a priority. We were immediately taken in hand and placed where we wish. Each dish is explained. The service is as attentive and friendly as its is professional.
This dish and the following were accompanied by a Morgon from Laurent Thévenet (€6.50 a glass), which is filled with beautiful hints of red fruit and lasts quite long in the mouth.
We continued with a rizotto and Serrano ham. The dish was served less than 10 minutes after the first plate was sent back to the kitchen. Nice timing when we know that a rizotto takes about thirty minutes.
The rizotto with mascarpone, is mixed with daïkons (Japanese white radish), topped by a bed of gourmet peas, slices of serrano, all brought together with preserved garlic. The dish is well balanced: It is both crunchy with the daikon and melting with mascarpone. The sugar from the garlic confit is well-balanced with the salty Serrano. Another great restaurant for only €12 per dish.
I then chose a very simple dessert from my childhood: French toast. It is served with salted butter caramel. It is crispy on the surface and moist in the middle. Accompanied by salted butter, it is really excellent and although I was full, I just had to finish it.
Special greetings to the chef Frédéric Paul Chartier, who we had met before at La Balançoire.
He is talented, respects the product, and loves his job as much as his customers. He was trained at the famous Ferrandi school and then joined the brigade of Ducasse's Eiffel Tower brewery.
The adventure won't stop here for him and his partner. Thank you
LA BOITE AUX LETTRES
108, rue Lepic – 75018 Paris
Monday to Saturday from 12:00 pm to 2:30 pm and from 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm
http://www.restaurantlaboiteauxlettres.fr/
On behalf of the team at Relais Montmartre, we hope that you and your close ones, after the lockdown, are all well.
And now for a few surprises!
We have made the most of the imposed closure to decorate the Patio, which is now more luminous and pleasant for a relaxing moment after a hectic Parisian day.
We have also refurbished our 3rd floor with new colors and textiles which we’re impatient for you to discover and hope many of you will come to stay soon.
Despite the difficulties experienced by all over recent months, we have doubled our efforts to ensure that the reopening of Relais Montmartre will be the happiest of reunions and we are delighted to welcome you back again!
And by way of reminder, it is always in your best interests to reserve directly with the hotel: we propose better rates.
Take care and have a pleasant summer.
See you soon!
We've fallen for this gastronomic restaurant, rated 2 toques by Gault Millau. This restaurant, founded more than 60 years ago, is located just two minutes away from the Relais Montmartre and is worth a look if you are a gourmet. Plus, it serves the best meat in Montmartre.The chef and business owner since 2012 is Octave Kasakolu. Trained by two-star chef Henri Faugeron, he has worked in restaurants for over 25 years and has been in the kitchen for 10. Passionate about and deeply invested in his job, Octave Kasakolu is always looking to create something new and has unlimited creativity. We will expand on why the culinary experience offered here is unusual.
Octave KasakoluOctave Kasakolu is always on the lookout for something new. He uses his favorite districts and markets to conduct his research. He goes in the 15thdistrict, rue des entrepreneurs, for Iranian products. He also visits all the oriental and African stores for ingredients such sweet potatoes, ginger, items he had not thought of before, to work on and offer a creative dish that has, above all, a real culinary interest.
Specialized in very high quality meat, the restaurant has its own maturing room, where the meat is carefully staled to obtain a pure product. The dried meats, as for them, are each chosen with care.Les tantes jeanne is the only restaurant in Montmartre to offer Kobe Beef (Japan) in its prestigious meat menu. This traditional meat is highly recognized for its marbled flavor and tenderness.
But what will you eat? In addition to the 7 times tasting menu at €185, including a Kobe beef to which we will return, the menu, which is often renewed, offers 4 starters ranging from €12.50 to €24, and a plate of excellent charcuterie: dried Wagyu, Bellota Pata Negra, Galician rib steak... (€28).
As for the dishes, there is, for example, this very fine Arctic char fillet, a high mountain fish that is usually found on 3-star menus, served with a barley syrup risotto, pike or flying fish eggs, and white butter.
Arctic char fillet
Depending on the season, you can order a deer filet beautifully served as a Tournedos Rossini, with a sauce made from sorrel and Iranian lemon, foie gras, spinach, boletus mushrooms, girolle mushrooms, and chanterelle mushrooms.
Deer filletOr this rack of Axuria lamb with Espelette pepper, served from October to May, which is as delicious as it looks:
We also recommend the famous black Angus, enjoyable, for example, with an side of smoked vegetables and flavored with rosemary and lemon thyme.
The Black Angus rib steak - 200gr, €36 - 300gr, €54
The assortment of cheeses from Virginie Boularouah (address to discover) is a small wonder.
The room is warm and the tables are tidy. Silver cutlery from Thiers, plates from manufacture de Monaco, everything is designed for good food that you can accompany with wines chosen from 600 bottles, with the advice of a sommelier chef.
If you have room for dessert, try the "Comme une tatin", which has a crunchy chocolate base and whipped caramel. The arrangement is a poem on its own.
Bon appétit.
LES TANTES JEANNES
42 rue Véron, 75018 PARIS
Tél: 01 42 51 14 21
Open Monday to Tuesday, from 6:00 pm to 11:30 pm and Wednesday to Sunday, from 12:00 pm to 3:00 pm and 6:00 pm to 11:30 pm.
Website: http://www.lestantesjeanne.fr/